Bonjour FAMSTERS!
What follows is a rather long report on my visit to Bell&Ross at Baselworld 2013... Enjoy!!
PART ONE: INTRODUCTION & THE STANDAfter a rather long and busy day, I've started off my Bell&Ross Basel reports with an introduction to the show / stand and the various themes that are being presented this year.
As always a familiar clock greets you on arrival at Basel, but this year is slightly different for two reasons. Firstly the existing exhibition hall has been transformed by a gigantic metallic structure which extends from the main hall 1 out onto the street and hangs over you like a huge UFO...
This area has always been a social gathering place and typically people normally get over heated by the sun rays while they wait for colleagues or go for a much needed cigarette break... So this new structure would make sense to shield out the rays, however today it looks like we bought the English weather with us as it was cloudy and overcast.... which meant the new structure made the entrance feel quite dark!
[ my trusty travel partner]
On entering the hall we travel to the usual place at the back of hall one, to a new bigger stand, which is (As in the previous years) stark black making a dramatic contrast against the ultra bright white of Chanel next door.
The outside of the hall exposes the classic collections from past years, such as heritage, commando and others that people view through small window displays.
Inside the stand, which has a much larger downstairs area, the space is taken up with a new exhibit.
Last year saw the Harley Davidson bike, which was hard to top, but this year Bell&Ross have transported the huge cockpit of the WWII fighter plane into their stand, for people to view and of course to sit in.
As Carlos said to us, many other watch companies reference the plane, but Bell&Ross are the only company that go inside the cockpit.
With that I of course mean the BR01 Flight Instrument range, which you will know as the Heading indicator, the Climb and Airspeed.
These are presented with last years instruments to 'complete' the set in a great looking wooden box display ( Serial numbers 1 to 99 will be presented only as a set of 6 in the wooden box).
So, before I go on further with separate reports for each watch collection I will recap with a quick glimpse of what is to come....
As mentioned we start in the cockpit with the 3 flight instruments
Then we move to this year's limited edition range for the Dassualt Falcon. Interesting to note, that many watch companies were approached about this project, which celebrates the 50th Anniversary however Bell&Ross were very proud to be part of this historic event with two watches; in 123 and 126 format. Please note that the pictures below show the dial in development, the final dial will be matt brown but shiny as represented by these photos.
Complimenting this range is the regular Vintage heritage sport collection, which I think has resulted in the cleanest design Bell&Ross have created in years, the 123 sport. Who would have thought that the surprise Sport 126 from last year would influence this great design.
Then we have the new Vintage WW1 Regulator Pink Gold. This for me is a highlight in design and function. Whilst the BR01 cockpit instruments are the iconic images for Bell&Ross, this really shows off their design, and is a real favourite of mine.
Finally, for the moment at least, we have a new collection - the 'Golden Heritage' this is taking the much celebrated (and copied) creamed marker dials of the heritage collection onto a new level..
The reference for this is golden military - think of insignia, patches and decorations... these are what help to create this lovely new collection which are MUCH different in real life than in the photos. For example the dials have fine 'tropic' style textures (like the WWII) with gold applied indexes and an update to the strap, this is sure to become a great success.
I have outlined in detail the collections above with more photos and thoughts on the watches...
PART 2: FROM THE COCKPIT TO THE WRIST: THE BR01 AVIATION COLLECTIONFirst in my series of reviews on the collections presented this year at Baselworld is the BR01 AVIATION series of flight instruments which are directly influenced by instrumentation of the aircraft cockpits.
Continuing on from the three released last year, for 2013 Bell&Ross have addresses three new instruments: the HEADING INDICATOR, the AIRSPEED and CLIMB. As before these will be released in limited editions ( 999 each ) and the first 99 will be sold as a set along with the 2012 instruments in lovely collectors box.
Prior to me seeing these watches, my favorite from the press photos was the HEADING INDICATOR, this was followed by AIRSPEED with CLIMB taking third place, so I was interested to see how my opinion might change once I saw the watches on the wrist.
Shown at the show are the three original instruments which offer a reference for the new collection.
So first up is the HEADING INDICATOR. As an instrument this is used as a compass / course indicator and indicates the course the plane is on.
Bell&Ross have designed this using the disc based watch as seen previously on the Compass and BR01 Red Radar.
The plane is printed on the sapphire crystal in bright yellow, along with a central Bell&Ross logo - heading to 12H at all times. The hours are represented by the N triangle symbol, the minutes are represented by an middle disc. The seconds are the innermost disc are a yellow indicator line - So with that in mind, the photo above shows the time at 10:15 and 25 seconds. Probably the biggest challenge of this watch is reading the time takes slightly longer than normal - however I feel it is a special watch which you would wear when possibly not running to catch the train!
On the wrist it looks fantastic - very much as expected and I think compared to last years turn co-ordinator it is a great improvement on design. The use of yellow on this watch is in particular is a great accent and really makes the design complete.
Next up is the BR01 AIRSPEED. In instrument form, this would indicate the speed of the aircraft in relation to air through which it is moving. Within the aircraft, the different colours indicate warnings (too fast! or too slow!)
On this watch, the warning symbols have been divided up into 15 minute segments, the ‘speed’ is represented by minutes and the Knots are represented by an inner hour design.
In design terms, this is probably closer to the ALTIMETER watch we saw last year - however unlike that watch it doesn’t contain a date function.
Of the three watches from this year, this is probably the most legible and also I think probably the one watch which represents Bell&Ross BR01 DNA in design at a glance. It’s a great looking watch, especially on the wrist and the use of colour is again a nice accent to the design.
For me, probably the only notable item I would prefer would be for the hour hand to be phantom in colour - this would then accurately represent the true airspeed instrument. However I can see why this hasn’t been done - as it would make the inner hour function difficult to read.
Finally we have the BR01 CLIMB. In instrument form, this is similar to the Airspeed, as it measures speed - however this is based on vertical speed and is based on atmospheric pressure.
Out of the three watches, this is probably the most useful and I gather it will also be the most commercial for retailers. This is due to the date function and the useful power reserve function which is excellently represented by the yellow POWER indicator. Whilst the hour hand is in phantom format (Which helps to represent the original instrument) it is perfectly legible.
On the wrist it looks great. Whilst it’s not a radically different to the ALTIMETER from last year, the PR function and yellow accent makes this watch more appealing.
So that about wraps up my review of the flight instruments. Now I’ve seen all 6; I’ve rated my favorites:
1.HEADING INDICATOR 2013
2.ALTIMETER 2012
3.CLIMB 2013
4.TURN CO-ORDINATOR 2012
5.AIRPSPEED 2013
6.HORIZON 2012
Finally, I feel that now we have all 6 complete, I think it is time for Bell&Ross to look at a new direction for BR01... Still looking into the cockpit but maybe more interesting materials / dials and references so will be really interested to see what next year brings
PART 3: VINTAGE SPORT HERITAGE & DASSAULT FALCON50 years ago saw the creation of the now famous Dassault Falcon 20 and this year it is being celebrated by a collaboration with Bell&Ross who release a superb new addition to their Vintage sport collection.
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If we rewind to 2012, Bell&Ross presented the 126 SPORT HERITAGE for the first time, which was a combination of the officer and original 126 vintage watches with an addition of a fixed bezel. At the time the watch seemed a little out of place - it’s didn’t fit into a category (is it officer? is it original?) however it did get a some good press for it’s stunning looks.
Fast forward to this year, and we’re presented with a collection of 4 watches! first we have a regular line of vintage sport heritage watches; these are - black dial, cream markers, fixed bezel and retro looking rubber strap. Flip the watch over and you’re presented with a sapphire crystal where you can view the decorated ETA movement.
For me, probably the most striking design is the VINTAGE SPORT HERITAGE 123. The use of the standard second hand (in white) is a great improvement over the sub seconds we saw on the original 123 watches. The cream markers give the watch a very retro styled finish and a small addition of red references watches from that period.
At 41mm, on the wrist it’s a bit smaller than an BR03 however the addition of the bezel is a welcome boost and provides a great finishing touch to the watch. Quite a few people will complain that the bezel doesn’t move, however I think it looks great and functions perfectly as a indicator for minutes.
The strap is ultra comfortable and the tang buckle is much better than the deployment as seen on the original watches.
I do however think that for me a dark brown strap (As seen on the 123 carbon original) would work best on this watch and if I was buying I’d certainly get that as the daily wear and use the rubber as a back up.
In addition to the regular line, the limited edition VINTAGE HERITAGE SPORT FALCON 123 and 126 offer a slightly different representation of the watch.
It is quite difficult to give a final verdict on this as the dial was not correct. For these prototypes the dial was shiny however the final one will be matt brown with a slight ‘tropical’ effect as seen on the WWII watches from last year.
Also not seen is the engraved caseback - this will contain applied sliver lettering on the reverse of the watch with the ’50 years of passion and innovation’ - I can imagine this looking stunning and look forward to seeing a final model.
One thing that does work well on the falcon is of course the strap which I mentioned above - it’s a great finish and will no doubt compliment the dial.
All in all, a very impressive line for the SPORT... it’s a great addition to the vintage collection and best of all my favourite the 123 will be the most affordable. BR-AVO Bell&Ross for this!
PART 4: WW1 REGULATEUR PINK GOLD (LTD EDITION 99 PIECES)Continuing on from the Vintage WW1 Heure Sautante model introduced last year, Bell&Ross have produce a stunning pink gold WW1 regulator watch for Baselworld 2013.
Utilising the regulator movement as seen on the WW2 last year, this new model strips back to basics to present a watch that is so subtle and refined it is an absolute delight to look at and wear.
I would go to say that this is probably the nicest Bell&Ross designed watch I have ever seen!
The dial size is perfect - 42mm, it has a domed sapphire crystal and the iconic WW1 ‘styled’ wire lugs are fitted to a high quality alligator strap.
The dial is a cream coloured and it is silvered (like a pearl) complementing this are beautiful and elegant blued hands making the watch extremely elegant.
Of course being pink gold and limited edition this watch will probably be beyond the price of most, however the craftsmanship of the watch is just top notch. Whilst most people recognise Bell&Ross for their flight instruments and more affordable vintage watches, they should be applauded for the design of this fine watch.
There is absolutely nothing more I have to say about this, other that I only wish I could afford to buy one - that is the only negative for me!
PART 5: BELL&ROSS BR03 GOLDEN HERITAGEEver since launching in 2009 with the BR01-92 The Heritage collection has been a huge hit and a great icon for the brand which has seen it grow into vintage, WW1 and BR03 models. This style of watch has also influenced countless other brands and just walking around Basel you often see ‘Heritage’ themed watches which have a touch of ‘Bell&Ross’ about them in styling...
Keen to keep evolving the design and reference, Bell&Ross are looking to expand their collection by offering a new Heritage collection - the GOLDEN HERITAGE was officially launched at Baselworld 2013 and this starts with the presentation of two BR03s.
The design reference for this is the use of golden heritage items in military - notably, patches, badges, medals etc.
Below illustrate the types of gold - fabric and metal that both contain military heritage and are the kind of reference Bell&Ross are presenting with this new Time Instrument.
So this leads me onto the actual watches, presented where a BR03-92 and BR03-94. This new range has applied golden indexes, markers (including the date) and hands to provide a very different look and feel to a familiar watch. A fine detail and hard to photograph is the dial - this is very dark brown matt coloured dial with tiny ‘speckles’ of colour - to provide a ‘tropical’ effect. This has been seen before on the WW2 and WW1 MonoPusher last year, however I feel the effect here is finer and more subtle.
The case is as before - it is a standard BR03 stainless steel case with brushed finish and polished edges. Completing the look is a dark brown heritage strap which is lovely. This gives the watch a really different look, whilst still maintaining the Bell&Ross DNA.
The key thing to note about these watches is they look VERY different in person than the press photos we’ve seen. The subtle colour of the dial and golden markers are really nice and catch the light with reflections.
My only comment about these watches is the case. I feel this should have had a different finish - Possibly polished to enhance the gold elements on the dial or even given a subtle brown PVD finish which we saw with the WW2 last year, as it stands they are lovely watches but it does feel like a new dial on an old watch!
With that said, these are a welcome addition to the BR03 family and no doubt we will see the Golden Heritage collection expand to their other lines over the next couple of years.
THANKS FOR READING ALL MY BASEL REPORTS!! PIERS
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